Explorer. Traveler. RV Enthusiast. National Park Geek.

The Stepped Pyramid of Djoser and the Mohammad Ali Mosque

We joined with 69 other soon-to-be friends on our first official day as part of our Viking Nile River Cruise itinerary. All of the cruise passengers gathered at 8 a.m. in the morning for some orientation information, a broad overview of the next ten days and information about our first day itinerary in Cairo which includes visits to Saqqara and the Citadel.

We have dedicated buses taking us around Cairo.
We have dedicated buses taking us around Cairo.
All of our tour guides are very experienced and have significant background knowledge about Egypt.
All of our tour guides are very experienced and have significant background knowledge about Egypt.

We are broken up into three different groups with creative names like “Bus A”, “Bus B” and “Bus C”.

We were assigned to Bus C and will be with the same tour guide for the entire trip. On previous tours with Viking you relied on local guides at each location but with the Nile River cruises you have the same guide for the entire trip.

Our tour guide is impressive. Heba has a Ph.D. in Egyptology and has been a licensed tour guide in Egypt for over 30 years. In short – she knows her stuff!

It took us about 40 minutes by bus to reach the the Saqqara Archeological Site for our first up close view of a pyramid – and more specifically a stepped pyramid.

The Saqqara Archeological Site was very large - and could have been an all day visit if we had the time.
The Saqqara Archeological Site was very large – and could have been an all day visit if we had the time.

Upon arrival and having our tickets scanned we toured through the burial rooms of Kagemni who was the Vizier of King Teti. His tomb was highly decorated and had many inscriptions – including several that still have the original paint on them from when the tomb was constructed around 2330 BC.

The colors are amazingly vibrant considering they are several thousand years old.
The colors are amazingly vibrant considering they are several thousand years old.
The pictorials all told stories about everyday life in Egypt - including care for animals and stories about the Nile River.
The pictorials all told stories about everyday life in Egypt – including care for animals and stories about the Nile River.

We then had the opportunity to visit the burial chamber of King Teti (around 2330 BC) in a stepped pyramid – but it required a bit of body twisting to get there.

The trip from outside the pyramid to the burial chamber involved hunching over and scooting through a steeply inclined tunnel to view the sarcophagus and burial chamber. The opportunity to go down the small tunnel was optional (definitely not for the claustrophobic) and several of our fellow cruisers made it about half way down and decided further tunnel explorations were not for them.

Noel and I eagerly went through the tunnel and were rewarded with a fascinating view of an actual burial chamber.

Noel hunched over going into the tunnel down to the burial chamber.
Noel hunched over going into the tunnel down to the burial chamber.
A view looking up at the small tunnel from the burial chamber to the surface.
A view looking up at the small tunnel from the burial chamber to the surface.
We made it part way in the tunnel! You can see how small it is from the photo.
We made it part way in the tunnel! You can see how small it is from the photo.

Upon emerging from the tunnel it was good to stretch out a bit before getting on our bus and driving about 10 minutes to the Step Pyramid Complex – also part of the Saqqara archeological site.

We had the opportunity to visit the first pyramid ever built in Egypt by King Netjerykhet (also called Djoser) around 2700 B.C.

The stepped pyramid of Djoser.
The stepped pyramid of Djoser.

The area surrounding the stepped pyramid was originally enclosed by a 10 meter high wall when it was built. Over the ensuing centuries the wall had been knocked down but had been partially reassembled in the 1920’s. It was stunning to see just how large the complex was when first built.

The entrance to the compound of the stepped pyramid.  This was part of the wall which was reassembled during restoration in the early 1900’s.
The entrance to the compound of the stepped pyramid. This was part of the wall which was reassembled during restoration in the early 1900’s.
The walls were very thick - and had columns supporting a roof when they were built.
The walls were very thick – and had columns supporting a roof when they were built.

After finishing up at the Saqqara archeological site, we drove to a nearby weaving school and were shown a demonstration on handmade Egyptian Rugs. It was fascinating to watch some of the artisans at work on these beautiful pieces of art.

We were able to see some artisans crafting hand woven Egyptian Rugs
We were able to see some artisans crafting hand woven Egyptian Rugs

It was time for lunch – and we stopped for a buffet lunch at a local nearby restaurant called the Sakkara Palm Club. Since we were at communal dining tables everyone shared where they were from. One couple we sat with are Rutgers alumni who came to Seattle in 2015 to watch WSU play Rutgers in football. A small world!

We enjoyed our buffet lunch at the Sakkara Palm Club.
We enjoyed our buffet lunch at the Sakkara Palm Club.

After lunch we got on the bus and headed to an historic site called the Salah al-Din al-Ayyubi Citadel – or “The Citadel” for short.

Like many large historical sites – it was slowly built up over centuries. The first part of the Citadel was built in 1176 A.D. This was the seat of Egypt’s rule up until the 1800’s when it was moved to a new palace.

The most impressive part of the site was the Mohammad Ali Mosque – which was finished in 1848 for the ruler at the time – Mohammad Ali.

The front of the Mosque
The front of the Mosque
The courtyard outside of the Mosque was being set up for a wedding.
The courtyard outside of the Mosque was being set up for a wedding.

The inside was breathtakingly beautiful with amazing 24 karat gold work, superb stone work and stunning architecture.

The Mosque Chandelier weighed nearly 2 tons.
The Mosque Chandelier weighed nearly 2 tons.
This is the ceiling of the Mosque.
This is the ceiling of the Mosque.
Women were asked to cover their heads when going into the Mosque - Noel made use of her new scarf!
Women were asked to cover their heads when going into the Mosque – Noel made use of her new scarf!

After learning about the mosque and taking a few photos – it was time to head back to the hotel and rest up for our next day of site-seeing in Cairo.

Our first day seeing these historical structures was almost overwhelming given their size, complexity and history. We are eagerly looking forward to new experiences and sites that we will see tomorrow!

Until next time …


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